Fix my credit
What bad credit is really costing you
Bad credit is not a character flaw — it is a file full of items, and some of them are wrong. Here is what those items cost, what can be challenged, and how long the work takes.
Where does your score fall?
Most models run 300 to 850. Anything under about 650 is generally treated as bad credit by mainstream lenders.
Poor
300–579
Fair
580–669
Good
670–739
Very good
740–799
Exceptional
800–850
Ranges shown are for common FICO models. Lenders use different models and their own thresholds.
Bad credit could keep you from
Mortgage approval
Underwriters read the whole file. Collections and recent late payments can stop an approval before the rate is ever discussed.
The rate on your car
The same vehicle, the same term, two different scores — and thousands of dollars of difference in what you pay for it.
The good cards
Low-rate cards and real rewards sit behind a score threshold. Below it you get high APRs and deposit requirements.
Where you can live
Landlords pull credit. So do utility companies, and in many states insurers use credit-based scores when pricing you.
Some jobs
For certain roles — finance, security clearances, management — employers can pull a credit report with your permission.
Borrowing at all
Prime lenders decline, and what is left charges for the risk. Bad credit is expensive every single month.
What actually affects your score
Five factors, and they are not weighted evenly. Knowing the order tells you where to spend your effort.
~35%
Payment history
The heaviest factor by far. A single 30-day late can report for seven years, and recent lates hurt more than old ones.
~30%
Amounts owed & utilization
Your card balances against your limits. Under 30% is the guideline, under 10% is where top scores live. This is your fastest lever.
~15%
Length of credit history
How long accounts have been open and active. Closing an old card shortens your history and cuts your available limit.
~10%
New credit & inquiries
Hard inquiries stay two years and stop mattering much sooner. Several applications in a short window is what raises flags.
~10%
Credit mix
Installment and revolving history together. Worth points, but never a reason to open debt you do not need.
How credit repair works here
Step one
We read all three reports
Line by line, across Equifax, Experian and TransUnion. Wrong balances, duplicate collections, accounts that are not yours, dates that would keep an item on your file longer than the law allows.
Step two
We challenge what looks wrong
Disputes go to the bureaus and, where it makes sense, directly to the creditor or collector that reported the item. Anything they cannot verify gets escalated.
Step three
We help you hold the gains
Utilization targets, payment timing, which accounts to keep open, and what to do before you apply for anything big. Removals mean nothing if new damage lands next month.
How long does it take?
- 30–60 daysUtilization changes and clear-cut errors with clean documentation.
- 3–6 monthsA normal dispute campaign — bureau round, creditor round, escalations.
- 6–24 monthsRecent late payments, charge-offs and collections losing weight as they age.
- 2–10 yearsMost negatives fall off at seven years; Chapter 7 bankruptcy at ten.
Anyone promising a specific score by a specific date is telling you what you want to hear. We will not.
What better credit is worth
Same person, same income — the price changes with the file.
| Goal | With bad credit | With good credit | Difference |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mortgage, $300k / 30 yr | Often declined | Prime rate | Tens of thousands in interest |
| Auto loan, $30k / 60 mo | Subprime APR | Low APR | Thousands over the term |
| Credit cards | High APR, low limits | Low APR, real limits | Hundreds per year |
| Personal loan | Declined or costly | Approved at market rate | Cheaper emergencies |
| Apartment | Extra deposit or denial | Standard terms | Upfront cash saved |
| Insurance (most states) | Higher premium | Lower premium | Every renewal |
Illustrative only. Actual rates and approvals depend on the lender, the product, your income and your full credit file.
What does it cost?
Price follows the size of the job. We quote you after we have seen your report — and by law you never pay before work is performed.
$
Basic
A handful of questionable items. Focused disputes plus a plan for building positive history.
$$
Moderate
A moderate number of items across bureaus. Multiple dispute rounds and creditor-level follow-up.
$$$
Aggressive
A heavily damaged file. Full-file work, escalations on unverified items, and ongoing monitoring.
Not sure what is even on your report?
Start with the free evaluation. You get a read on your file, a list of what looks challengeable, and an honest answer on what it will take.
Get my free evaluation